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60+ Gift IDEAS for blacksmiths

11/29/2024

 
---UPDATED for 2024!---
Someone you know has gotten into blacksmithing and you're looking for an appropriate gift! Never fear! I can get you pointed in the right direction.  

Honestly, I've lost track of how many gift ideas are in this increasingly epic post. There were 60+ ideas here a few years ago. Compiling and updating this list takes a LOT of time and effort, so there are affiliate links that will give the school a tiny kick-back (I think I made $43 last year, this is an act of love, not a get-rich scheme!). Please feel free to comparison shop and leave me feedback if you find a better product or better deal. 
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Tongs
  • Tongs are absolutely critical to forging.  Perhaps your blacksmith already has some tongs! BUY MORE!!!!
  • Check out tongs at: Centaur Forge and Quick and Dirty Tools and Blacksmith Supply (use the code MCSfive to get 5% off  at Blacksmith Supply). 
I am VERY fond of "Tom Tongs", and that's most of what I use at the shop. I especially like the "bolt" tongs or the "v-bit" tongs. I also really like the "z-box" jaw tongs which allow you a great deal of flexibility on how you can hold things.
I don't know of a single blacksmith who would turn down a well-made set of tongs.  You could keep a blacksmith happy for years by buying a different size pair of tongs for every major gifting occasion.  

Marking and Measuring
  • Milwaukee Inkzall Point Marker Fine (affiliate link). I never thought I'd be a person with a STRONG preference for a permanent marker, but here we are. These have completely replaced Sharpies in my shop. They keep disappearing, so be sure to pick up some spares! 
  • Silver pencil (affiliate link) Alternative to soapstone.  Less visible than soap stone on cold metal, but MORE visible on hot metal.  There's also silver pens (affiliate link). 
  • Charcoal pencil (affiliate link). I'd never heard of these and WOW are they great.  Highly recommended. Marks hot metal nicely. 
  • These paint pens work on a LOT of surfaces. I find them a bit tricky to use without glooping the paint everywhere, but when you need them, you need them: Markal Liquid Paint Markers (affiliate link).
  • Metal rulers (affiliate link) If your smith has been borrowing your wood or plastic ruler, chances are pretty good that you're not going to get it back without a little char on it.  I've linked to a set of metal rulers of different sizes.  If you happen to come across a metal FOLDING ruler at a yard sale or something, snap it up--if your blacksmith doesn't want it, I know some who would! A combination square (affiliate link) is a great way to level up. 
  • Measuring tape (affiliate link) Your blacksmith probably already has a measuring tape already.  But, gosh, I just bought 6 more last month because I cannot keep track of them! The particular one in the link is great for folks making most projects, but if your smith is working with architectural stuff, consider a 25' or 30' tape. Maybe a three-pack keychain version (affiliate link) would be helpful?
  • Speed square (affiliate link) This nifty thing helps your blacksmith make things square. Quickly. Very useful. 

Joinery
  • Rivets There are a lot of ways to join multiple pieces of metal together.  Rivets are among the fastest and most versatile.  Get the STEEL (not stainless steel) rivets, and if it's in your budget, get a variety of sizes.  McMaster-Carr will deliver your order so fast you'll think it's magic. 
  • Decorative screws -- Blacksmith Bolt & Rivet Supply has an exclusive pyramid square-headed wood screws, which are INCREDIBLY useful for mounting custom ironwork to wood. I super duper recommend making sure that your blacksmith has a 8-point socket set (affiliate link) to drive these decorative screws in (they don't have the typical slots in the top). 

Finishing
  • Hand files It's incredibly useful to have a wide variety of hand files around. Tiny files are great for tiny spaces.  Round files are great for rounding things. Rectangular files are great for making things squareish.  Rasps are great for getting rid of a lot of material quickly, precision files are great for detail work. Look, I don't want to beat you over the head with this: hand files make great gifts. Get a variety.  Arrange them in a bouquet.  Your blacksmith will love it.  Get some chalk and a file cleaner to maximize the lifespan of these files. If you aren't sure what files to get, let me know and I'll connect you up with my file guy. 
  • Belt sanders are invaluable tools in a blacksmith shop. I have a handmade one, a used Grizzly G1015 (affiliate link), and a Multitool Grinder (remember to use the code MCSfive to get 5% off!). If your blacksmith already has a belt sander, I recommend some of the "surface conditioning" belts from Combat Abrasives. (Make sure you look up the size of the belts needed for your blacksmith's belt sander). 
  • Steel wool (affiliate link) Yeah, this sounds like a weird thing, but it's one of the ways we clean up metal to finish it.  The stuff you buy in the grocery store is fine too, so long as it doesn't have soap embedded in it.
  • Scuff pad / Scotch Brite pads (affiliate link) These pads will help to clean the metal and to buff it, depending on the coarseness of the pad. I like keeping these on hand to brighten the metal I'm working with.
  • Tumbler (affiliate link). If your blacksmith makes smaller items (4-6") this is a great turn-key way to automate cleaning up the metal. Use with these pins.
  • I also use rotary tools like Dremels or the more heavy-duty "flex shaft" rotary tools. This is the one I currently use the most (affiliate link). I use these (affiliate link) to get a really amazing polish in hard-to-reach areas. 
  • Bees wax! This is a very traditional way to finish metal. Heat it up and melt the bees wax on to the piece. 
  • Fancier finishes. I am honored to introduce you to Sculpt Nouveau. This video has a great overview of some of the coolest chemical finishes they offer. Even if your blacksmith typically works with a different finish, it's really neat to have some other options in the shop. 

Cutting & drilling
  • Hardie cut-off tools are some of the fastest ways to cut hot metal. I really like this Butcher Hardie tool from Blacksmith Supply (remember to use the code MCSfive to get 5% off!). Be sure to check the size of the square hole in your blacksmith's anvil. This particular link is good for anvils with a 1" square hole.
  • I use a bandsaw to cut a lot of my material. I have a Dewalt bandsaw (affiliate link) with a really nifty stand made by Swag. The stands work with most common brands. I use a foot pedal (affiliate link) to turn the power on and off (and a velcro cable tie (affiliate link) around the on-off switch to keep it on when I'm using the foot pedal.
  • Chop saw (affiliate link) I have an older version of this saw.  Don't forget to get some replacement blades (affiliate link). 
  • Drill bits I tend to buy drill bit sets (affiliate link) from my local box hardware store, BUT, I happened to take a look at the "about drill bits" section on the McMaster-Carr site and WOW, there's a lot of great information there! I also recommend this inexpensive and handy drill gauge (affiliate link) so that your blacksmith will be able to figure out what size hole they need to drill. 
  • Center punches are invaluable tools for marking your metal where you'd like to drill a hole. Yes, your blacksmith can make one, but they're also pretty inexpensive to buy and they're gonna last a long time (remember to use the code MCSfive to get 5% off!). If you want to REALLY step up the luxury, check out these Starrett Spring-Impact Marking Punches (I got one last year and I love it, but I'm so used to using the other ones that I forget that I have it!)

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Education
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Classes I SUPER DUPER recommend getting your blacksmith at least one class a year.  Yes, I know that classes can be expensive and can take up precious vacation time.  But, it's the fastest way to recharge your blacksmith.  They'll come home with new skills, projects, techniques, and ideas.  And friends.  
This list is East-coast-centric, because that's where I've been able to take the most classes.  If you run a school that you want included on this list, drop me a line! (In no particular order...)

  • John C Campbell Folk School, Brasstown, NC
  • Penland School of Crafts, Penland, NC
  • Goat n Hammer, Douglasville, GA
  • Touchstone Center for Crafts, Farmington, PA
  • Center for Metal Arts, Johnstown, PA
  • Virginia Institute of Blacksmithing, Waynesboro, VA
  • Banton-Smith Center for Blacksmith and Metal Arts, Goochland, VA
  • Peters Valley School of Craft, Layton, NJ
  • Prospect Hill Forge, Waltham MA
  • Brookfield Craft Center, Brookfield, CT
  • Blacksmith Guild of Central Maryland, Westminster, MD.  
  • William F Moran Jr. Museum & Foundation, Middletown, MD
  • Ms Caitlin's School, Frederick, MD. Hey! Your blacksmith should come hang out with me! ​​

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The big tools 
Your blacksmith is just starting to set up their own shop and you want to help them get there.  The most important tools for smithing (forge, forge stand, fuel, anvil, anvil stand, post vice, post vice stand, hammer) are actually the most challenging items to list in a gift guide because so much depends on their shop setup and their personal preferences.  
  • Forge -- Is your blacksmith going to forge with coal or charcoal?
    • Consider this full set-up or this one 
    • With propane? I currently use this one and I love it. I've heard good things about these (use MSCfive for 5% off at Blacksmith Supply).
    • With electricity? I'm SO impressed by induction forges, but I don't know enough about them yet to recommend any particular induction forges.
  • Anvil -- Please consider buying a quality anvil.  I got two 206lb Bulgar anvils, and one 185lb DTX anvil from Blacksmith Supply and I love them. I covet: Jymm Hoffman's anvils, and Nimba anvils. Some folks have also had excellent luck with Harbor Freight Anvils as a great way to get started. These 55lb anvils will have  you working extra hard to move steel and they're not very durable. I've heard good things about these Vevor anvils, but, given the price, I would keep my expectations low.
  • Post vice/vise -- Here's a new one you can just buy (don't forget to enter MSCfive to get a 5% discount!   You can find these used sometimes, but check to make sure that it has the spring and the plate to mount it.  These bits tend to get lost.  
  • Hammer -- blacksmithing hammers tend to be either "cross peen" or "rounding hammers". I  love and appreciate Beisler Blacksmith's Hammer.  I suggest that folks start out with the lightest hammer that allows them to feel gravity pulling on it (1-2lb, usually). 
  • Double diagonal peen hammer (these are not currently available, but I'm leaving up the link in the hopes that they'll be back in stock soon!!!) (remember: use the code MSCfive to get 5% off): I only recently discovered these and I LOVE them. They are appropriate for left and right handed smiths. They are fantastic for drawing out metal with a lot of speed, precision, and added ergonomics!
  • Stands -- Buy your blacksmith a welder and they'll be able to craft their own custom stands in 2-104 weeks.  There are a lot of welders available used, but I am currently drooling over this one. 

LED safety glasses
Safety

Eyes
  • Safety glasses (affiliate link) Even if your blacksmith has a favorite pair already, safety glasses get misplaced and scratched.  It's useful to have a fresh pair (or 12) on hand for visitors and helpers!  THESE (affiliate link) are great for folks with glasses. THESE (affiliate link) are great for kids or folks with small faces. 
Ears
  • Disposable earplugs (affiliate link) This virtually endless supply of earplugs will protect your blacksmith's hearing for a long time.  Great for visitors and helpers! 
  • Reusable earplugs: I have to be able to block out damaging noises AND still be able to hear my students. My current favorite ear protection is: Loop High Fidelity Hearing Protection (affiliate link).
  • Custom molded earplugs (affiliate link) All the cool kids are doing it. Disposable earplugs are great, but if your blacksmith is in their shop every day, they're going to go through a lot of earplugs.  I haven't tried these out myself yet, but they're on my list!
  • Over-the-ear protection (affiliate link) ear muffs designed for protection on the shooting range actually work really well in a blacksmith shop -- the muffs selectively block out loud noises while passing through normal noises. 

Face
  • Face shield (affiliate link) Do you like your blacksmith's face the way it is now?  Awesome!  Help your blacksmith keep their face in top-notch condition and keep plastic surgery bills down!  This is ESPECIALLY essential for rotary tools like bench grinders, hand grinders, dremels, and belt sanders. 

Hands/Arms
  • Kevlar sleeves (affiliate link) Does your blacksmith often have tiny burn marks on their forearms?  Missing arm hair? These Kevlar sleeves are amazing. I also wear them when welding. 
  • Kevlar gloves (affiliate link) Did you know that most smiths (who wear gloves) only wear a glove on their non-hammer hand? 

Workwear
  • Dovetail Workwear Use the code INCLUSIVE_BLACKSMITHS at checkout you'll receive 10% off your order, and the Society of Inclusive Blacksmiths will earn 5% on any product you purchase.
  • Leather aprons Customize by adding pockets, a leg split, tool loops, Y-strap system, changing leather types, and a custom logo. 

First Aid
  • Instant ice packs (affiliate link) Burns are inevitable.  The best way to keep a minor burn from getting worse is to cool it off in water right away until it doesn't feel warm anymore.  But sometimes you need other options. If there's no freezer in your smith's workshop, instant ice packs are the way to go. If you DO have a freezer, THESE (affiliate link) are super great! 
  • Blisters, in my experience, require two types of care: care while you're still working and care after you clean up.  Try out the 2nd skin (affiliate link) with silk medical tape (affiliate link) over it for in the shop.  Try out blister bandaids (affiliate link) once you've laid down your hammer for the day. 
  • First aid kits (affiliate link) are really smart things to have in the shop, and if your blacksmith doesn't have one yet, it's sure to come in handy.  Super useful to have tweezers for metal splinters (affiliate link), a mirror, and some extra burn cream (affiliate link).

Fire safety
  • Fire extinguishers (affiliate link) are pretty much no-brainers for blacksmithing shops.  If your blacksmith already has a fire extinguisher, check to see when it was last maintained.  Your local fire department may be able to refill them for $15-20, or they may be able to direct to someone who can. 
  • There are many ways to put out a fire.  Fire blankets (affiliate link) are super helpful.  
  • Smoke and carbon monoxide detectors (affiliate link) are a really really really good idea.  I especially like this handheld carbon monoxide detector (affiliate link) so that I can see the actual level of carbon monoxide that is being detected for early warning. 

Other good stuff
A blacksmith shop takes time and energy to maintain. Having good quality tools helps your smith spend time doing what they like best: forging. This part of the list includes the stuff that helps me stay productive in the shop. 
  • Klein 11-in-1 Multi-tool (affiliate link) this is a multi-function screwdriver/nut driver. So it's just one thing to grab. 
  • Anti-fatigue mat (affiliate link) If your smith is standing for long periods of time, this will help them to continue feeling energetic. 
  • Dovetail Workwear Use the code INCLUSIVE_BLACKSMITHS at checkout you'll receive 10% off your order, and the Society of Inclusive Blacksmiths will earn 5% on any product you purchase.

Giving back
Maybe your blacksmith has it all! Or, perhaps you're interested in supporting the craft as a whole!
You may support these organizations with funding to support daily functions, scholarships, or relief grants: 
  • Artist's Blacksmith Association of North America (ABANA) an international organization with headquarters in Johnstown, PA. 
  • Society of Inclusive Blacksmiths (SIBs) an international organization dedicated to supporting and promoting historically underrepresented populations in blacksmithing. 
  • Ms Caitlin's School of Blacksmithing is doing original research in blacksmithing. Help support this research by becoming a patron. 
  • Folk Education Association of America is helping to support folk schools like Ms Caitlin's School by connecting the community of folks running the local folkschools
You might also consider donating to the local blacksmith guild or to a craft school. 
All of these organizations would be happy to work with you to set up regular donations or planned giving. 

Be a lazy smith

12/5/2016

 
PictureCaitlin at the power hammer. John C Campbell Folk School
I read an article about Lance Armstrong before his fall from grace.  The article talked about how Mr Armstrong devoted all of his energy to biking; if he wasn't training, he was conserving his energy so that he could make the most of his next training session or his next race.  I'd never thought of it that way.  I thought of athletes as the folks who go out of their way to take the stairs. To lift the heavy thing.  To go at top speed just because they can. But this article (I'm trying to track it down, please bear with me) asserted that Lance Armstrong takes the elevator.  

Energy is a limited resource for all of us.  For some, it's an extremely limited resource (see spoon theory).  Sometimes folks (think: small children, people on certain legal and illegal substances, morning people) don't *seem* to have limits, but then things are quiet for a moment and you find that they've fallen asleep.  

It can be incredibly useful to keep in mind that there is a finite amount of work that can be accomplished in a day.  

(Okay, yes, I will acknowledge that some of you will find this thought very depressing.  That doesn't make it less true, but if you need a minute, please take a minute.  It gets better, I promise!)

Alright!  Glad to have you back!  So here's the good news: Having limited energy, limited time, and only so much work you can accomplish in one day is a great reason to be LAZY.  

Yes, that's right.  I think we should all be LAZY.  But I think you should be lazy in order to get more done.  Consciously choosing to do things that save you time and energy means that you can smith for longer.  

  • Think about the way you hold your hammer.  How does your arm feel?  How does your hand feel?  Are you gripping the hammer too tight?  If you are, you're working against your own muscle tension.  
  • In my shop, we put gravity to work.  If you're moving big metal, lift your hammer higher and let the weight of your hammer do most of the work.  I know you're very strong and hitting things can be a great workout, buuuuuuuuuuuut you'll burn out your arm and possibly cause injury.  And that's not very lazy of you.  
  • Metal doesn't move as much when it's cool. If you're hitting the metal when it's not glowing, you're almost certainly getting a great workout, but you probably aren't moving a lot of metal.  
  • Keep your metal as straight as possible for as long as possible.  Once you bend your metal, you run the risk of the bent end getting in your way.  It's not always possible to follow this guideline, but it's a great way to stay lazy!
Use your time-saving tools.  I'm all in favor of doing things the long way when it counts.  But we humans have developed all sorts of great ways to save time, save energy.  For example, you probably don't carry burning embers around with you at all times because you can easily start a fire with a lighter and some paper.  See how lazy you're being?  
  • Trying to make a piece longer and/or thinner?  Are you still working on the face of the anvil and hitting with the face of your hammer? Use the peen and the horn to move the material faster.  It can be scary to use the peen and the horn the first time because you'll first end up with a lot of little divots on your piece.  But these can be cleaned up quickly and easily on the face of your anvil.  Oh the time you'll save!
  • Don't have a power hammer, a treadle hammer, or an air hammer?  Buy yourself a sledge hammer (for between $8-40) and invite a friend over to strike for you.  Check out this video on striking. In this case you'll be the blacksmith and your friend will be the striker.  The striker's job is to ONLY hit when the blacksmith says to.  The blacksmith's job is to communicate where to hit and how hard. If you, as the blacksmith, are using a struck tool (like a chisel, punch, fuller, flatter, etc), you can communicate verbally ("STRIKE!") or with a gesture like a head nod.  If you are also hammering, you will indicate where to hit and how hard by hitting that spot with your hammer.  Take it slow, be mindful of flying hammers, and be sure to give your striker regular breaks. 
Treat yourself like an athlete. Stretch, warm up, drink lots of water, eat healthy, don't let your body get overheated or too cold, take regular breaks & put your feet up.  Wear clothes and shoes that allow you to move.  Stretch.  Get a good night's sleep.  Stretch.  Be mindful of your mental state.  If you feel out of it, don't push it; having to take a trip to the ER is the opposite of the lazy smith ideal.  

Blacksmiths are a very resourceful group of folks.  They are always on the lookout for ways to save time and energy.  Send me your favorite lazy blacksmith tip ([email protected]) and I'll add it to the list! 



 

Selecting your anvil

12/1/2016

 
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Anvils used to go for $1-2 /pound. They tend to be more expensive these days because collectors like them. So you can expect to pay as much as $3-6 / pound for a good anvil.

What's a good anvil? One that has a good rebound. Bring a ball bearing, drop it on the anvil surface from about 18" and you should be able to easily catch it when it bounces. If it doesn't bounce up nicely, you'll end up putting a *lot* more work into moving your metal. 

Also: check the edges. Watch out for chipped edges. You can work with them, but they reduce the value of the anvil.

Check the face of the anvil for cracks and deep grooves. Those will show up in your work like stamps. You can work around them but they reduce the value.

Of course, an antique dealer really doesn't have to care about whether the anvil is in working condition; they can sell a busted anvil to someone with money to burn as a lawn ornament for the same amount or more.

I really like the German-style anvils (also known as the double-horn anvils).  They have a normal horn on one end and a tapered, square horn on the other.  Very useful. 

You'll want an anvil that weighs about 150 pounds (or more) to get a reasonable amount of work out of it.  Smaller anvils can be useful for packing in your luggage and sweetly replying "yes, of course" when someone notes how heavy your bag is and wonders aloud if you've packed an anvil in it. 

Not that I've ever done that.  

Mistakes were made

8/11/2016

 
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"There is no such thing as a mistake. 'Mistake' is an idea we use to torture ourselves.  When we pay attention, everything enlightens us." --Cheri Huber, That Which You are Seeking is Causing You to Seek

My student swings the hammer and misses the mark. 
"I'm sorry!" the words leap to lips and spill out, dismay clearly evident.  No one is injured. The hammer simply didn't fall in the right place. 

"No worries!" I say, "This is part of the learning process!" And I smile. Then we talk about how the metal reacted to the errant swing.  I point out that something that was a "mistake" in one situation ends up being a "technique" in another.  We discuss and move on. 

This scene has played out not once or twice, but dozens of times.  

And the dismay on my student's face secretly breaks my heart.

It breaks my heart partly because making mistakes is a crucial part of learning to do something the right way.  Niels Bohr said "An expert is a person who has found out by his own painful experience all the mistakes that one can make in a very narrow field." It's not a snappy quotation, (and ohmygosh, implying only men can be experts!!) but look at him allude to "painful experience".  Look at how he talks about "all the mistakes".  

Learning can be really hard, folks. 
My students want to learn, be successful, do amazing things, but there is a crushing fear of making mistakes. But each mistake can be a treasure trove of learning, if we pay attention.  Errors are inevitable, but an experienced smith can identify errors early on, and fix them before they become problems.  And how do you become an experienced smith?  Well, you make all the mistakes there are to make.  (And you watch others make mistakes and fix them.  And you read about others making mistakes and fixing them.  And you try different fixes to the same mistake. And on and on and on.)


Mistakes and their fixes are THE MOST IMPORTANT PART of learning. I work extra special hard to create a safe space for students to learn and explore.  I'm here to help, to answer questions, to provide options, encouragement, and moral support, but students get to make --and fix-- their own mistakes.  And that means that they are empowered to do their own troubleshooting, which makes them a better smith down the road.

When I was first learning how to smith, there were a lot of well-meaning folks who tried to help me avoid making mistakes.  I lost track of the number of times that someone took my hammer out of my hand and "fixed it" for me.  This happened most memorably in the middle of a speed forging competition.  Because of this, I became very interested in what I could learn from my mistakes, and I think I'm a better smith because of it. 

Burn-out, puffins, blacksmithing.

5/31/2016

 
PicturePUFFINS!!!
I burned out last summer.  

I probably don't have to describe the emotional exhaustion, the hopelessness, and the eternal frustration because burn-out is pretty common (http://www.statista.com/topics/2099/stress-and-burnout/).  If you're not feeling burnt out yourself, it's likely that half of your friends could fill you in on what it's like.  

But this isn't a post about burn-out.  It's a post about puffins. 

Normally when I travel, I research everything.  But when I ended up in Iceland for a whirlwind business trip, I was completely unprepared.  I found myself on top of a plateau overlooking black sand beaches at dusk, and I was astonished to see THOUSANDS of puffins perched on the cliff edge, riding the thermals, grooming each other, and hovering mid-air, wings invisibly flapping. 

Puffins, it turns out, flap their wings 400 times per minute (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Puffin), which makes them look like little sad-eyed, colorful-beaked, torsos zooming about.  Giant clown-faced humming birds.  I recorded a little video of my unabashed excitement, but it was automatically deleted by my phone.  I wish so fervently that I still had that clip because it captured the exact moment when I fell in love with the world again. (Okay, I found a fragment of a video from that day.)

It's possible that I cried a little bit.  It's possible that I hugged a random tourist.  It's possible that I watched the birds until it was too dark to see them anymore.  

I wouldn't say that my life changed dramatically in that moment, but it reminded me how important it is to see and do new things.  And then I ran into this article: 
http://www.nhs.uk/conditions/stress-anxiety-depression/pages/learn-for-mental-wellbeing.aspx 

I've noticed that doing new things helps me handle stress and depression better.  It makes my world larger and more full of hope and possibility.  

If you're struggling right now, I hope that you find your puffin.  Iceland should be on your short list--it's spectacular.  But if you need something a bit closer to home (and home is within driving distance to Frederick, MD), I humbly offer my blacksmithing lessons.  

There is obviously no way that I can claim that blacksmithing treats stress, anxiety, or depression.  And there's no way to predict whether you'll fall in love with it like I did.  But it's widely believed that exercise helps mental-well-being, and you'll definitely get some exercise swinging a hammer.  And you get to make art.  And meet me, and I'll tell you all about the puffins in person. 

Caitlin

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    Blacksmith, instructor, mischief-maker.

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